On foot. The good road ends just outside Lamayuru however. After that it’s dirt tracks and then donkey trails. Most rivers have to be crossed on horseback or on foot. Not a joke even if it hasn’t been raining for a while.
The locals are used to foreigners but you could hardly call this mass tourism. The tourists leave enough rupees to bolster farmers’ incomes by staying on their land and eating their food, but it doesn’t seem to be enough to change the traditional lifestyle in this part of the world.